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Cadillac Jack's South Carolina Trip Diary
But first… our weekend journey through the Palmetto State begins in the Upcountry of South Carolina.
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The cameras. The flashes. Paparazzi? Surely not – Have I been found in Charleston at the 21 East Battery Bed and Breakfast nestled behind the Edmondston-Alston House (deep sarcasm here)? I can see them peeking through the wrought iron gates… some daring enough to take a couple of extra steps down the cobblestone drive to strike for a closer shot. Folk’ snapping away day and night – but, it was not intrusive. Quite the contrary. I found it very interesting. Pulling out onto the main drive, now outside the gates with the shutterbugs looking back at the Carriage House just beyond a live oak which nearly swallows the estate, I ask Innkeeper Julie as she waves us off home safely to Atlanta about the prestige and uniqueness and interest in the home. Her answer will surprise you as much as it did me. |  |
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THURSDAY, OCTOBER 8 MID-DAY I grew up in the Carolina’s. I was familiar with the city of Greenville. Passed through many of times while traveling back home to Charlotte on Interstate 85. I must admit most of the time it was a quick bite to eat (kid friendly, of course) or to top off the tank. I looked forward to an afternoon of discovey with my wife Donna. Kids at home with Nana. The drive is 2 hours max. Straight shot up 85. It’s a beautiful afternoon. The sun is shining and the sun roof is rolled back. Miranda Lambert’s new CD is blasting and we’re relaxing and we’re laughing and I am as in love with my wife as the day we first met. AFTERNOON We check into the Westin Poinsett on South Main Street (Greenville’s only 4 diamond hotel) and we decide to waste no time and waste no sunshine and dart back out the door for some exploration. Visit their website I learned that Greenville is a city with plenty of stuff to do with the kids (in addition to the many parks around town or green space and trails and the Liberty Bridge at Falls Park on the Reddy River – more on the Falls shortly). Check out the Greenville Zoo (Visit their website) and the new kid’s museum “Children’s Museum of the Upstate” (Visit their website). A smoothie from the Brew & Ewe on West Broad Street was the perfect complement to our afternoon stroll which continued past the Heritage Green (considered downtown Greenville’s cultural centerpiece) the Peace Center (my dad has attended several events here and he says it’s great for comedians and great for concerts too – it is also the home of the Greenville Symphony) and then to Falls Park and the Reddy River Falls. Falls Park is the heart of the City’s Riverwalk Park system and is home to Reedy River Falls and the Liberty Bridge which stretches 380 feet across the falls plus two amphitheatres and a beautiful public garden. NIGHT My dad was able to drive over from Asheville, North Carolina to join us for a great dinner at Soby’s (Visit their website). “Soup” our waiter told us that the menu had just changed – the chefs mix it up about every quarter to keep it fresh. We discovered and savored delicious and creative dishes inspired by rich, Southern traditions and infused with new, International flavors. Our table was soon filled with Cornmeal Fried Oysters, Soby’s She Crab Soup, a couple of BLT Wedge salads (with a delicious very creamy Blue Cheese dressing). Entrees included Soby’s Meatloaf with Maple Creole Mustard Glaze (dad), Seared Scallops with a sweet corn and bacon risotto (Donna) and I chose Braised Beef Short Ribs and I didn’t even use a knife! The ribs are braised with Thomas Creek Root Beer BBQ Sauce. Remember me mentioning that the menu is tweaked occasionally? On the last menu the ribs were braised with Cheerwine – a favorite soft drink of mine (not available in Atlanta) that I enjoyed three ways while in South Carolina for the weekend. In a can from the Flying J Truck Stop off I-26 in Columbia. In a cold bottle from the Moon Pie Store in Charleston and from a fountain over ice at the Krystal in Aiken on the return home. FRIDAY, OCTOBER 9 MORNING We started watching “The Hangover” in the room at the Westin Poinsett last night and feel asleep. Please don’t tell me how it ends. As we pull out I notice there is extra electricity, buzz and excitement in the air as the city prepares for “Fall For Greenville” which is the Upstate’s premiere festival. It was to begin this weekend. Tents are going up all over the downtown area to host 42 of the city’s finest restaurants offering favorite dishes plus live music, cooking competitions and demonstrations and a chili cook-off. “Fall For Greenville” is one of several annual street festivals in the area. As we heard towards Charleston via Columbia I glance over and notice my wife reading USA Today for Friday, October 9 and in the Life Weekend section there is lots of ink about my former stomping grounds Myrtle Beach, SC (I lived there in 1993 before joining KICKS 101-5). “Golf, sun and sand – at reasonable prices” is the headline. The Palmetto State is the place to be! MID-DAY As we approach Charleston we pass over the new Cooper River Bridge (now named the Ravenel Bridge) and it is amazing and somewhat intimidating too for a first jaunt. I remember recently watching an episode of “Colossal Construction” and seeing how they built this mammoth. We’re hungry and decide to grab a quick bite at the Noisy Oyster (I was craving a Shrimp Po-Boy and I couldn’t resist an order of a dozen on the half shell). I think our stop at the Noisy Oyster was premeditated. We were seated in one of the booths that opens up to the street which allowed Donna an hour to mentally map out her destinations for shopping while gazing up and down Market Street. EARLY AFTERNOON I am driving down East Battery along the Charleston Harbor and see nothing but beautiful palatial homes. I am searching for 21 East Battery which will become our nest for the next two nights. The 21 East Battery Bed and Breakfast (Visit their website) is located behind the historic Edmondston-Alston House which is one of many House Museums in the city – but none as unique as this one. Remember those clamoring for photos? Donna and I are greeted by Julie the Innkeeper and she shows us to the Carriage House. When we walked into the house I thought this was the “common area” where at most bed and breakfasts’ visiting couples and families meet and read and talk and eat and eat and share stories and eat some more. Julie then explained that the actual Carriage House is where we would be staying for the weekend. The quarters originally served as a stable and livery for the wealthy rice planter’s fine horses and handsome town carriages. The roomy interiors of the carriage house have original beamed-ceilings, heart-pine floors and a second-floor balcony with a view of the Charleston Harbor. Upstairs, the former hayloft is now the master bedroom overlooking the garden. The loft’s original doors have been re-installed as interior shutters and the original brick walls preserve the authentic architectural detail. We discovered every amenity – from a kitchen to a dining room table seating six to a baby grand piano – and Innkeeper Julie stocks the house with juices and fruits and she would sneak in throughout the weekend to tidy up and plant homemade pastries, cookies, cakes on the table – delicious! Julie exits quietly and Donna’s first words are: “If I disappear… you will find me here.” Not exactly the words I was first wanting to hear upon Julie’s exit. LATE AFTERNOON Another beautiful day today with the weather. Another walk is in order – this time along the “High Battery” which is the city’s legendary waterfront promenade. It’s a giant sea wall that makes everything from 21 East Battery be in very easy walking distance. EVENING My General Manager, Paul O’Malley, lived in Charleston before moving to Atlanta nearly two years ago. “You have to eat at Peninsula Grill and you have to have lobster three ways.” We made a reservation and found the restaurant on North Market Street. What about “Lobster 3 Way”? Ravioli, Tempura and Sautéed with Warm Tomato-Basil Vinaigrette. Enough said. The vinaigrette could double as a soup. And possibly a desert. SATURDAY, OCTOBER 10 MORNING Off to the South Carolina Aquarium. Your kids will love the new “Penguin Planet” exhibit. Our journey from the mountains to the seas of South Carolina starts upstairs in the Mountain Forest. Eight other exhibit areas include “Camp Carolina” for the kids and “The Ocean” with sharks, loggerhead sea turtles and puffer fish. We make a stop next door at the American Military Museum and also visit Boone Hall Plantation, The Charleston Museum and Drayton Hall. Then the beach bug bites. MID-DAY Off to Folly Beach which is about a 20 minute drive from Charleston. This weekend there are record temps being set for the city – it’s about 92 right now and perfect for putting your “toes in the sand” as Zac Brown sings in “Toes.” Time to grab a bite for lunch. Donna suggests the Surf Bar. Hot wings, hamburgers, a Halibut sandwich for my lady and Georgia/Tennessee football on the TV. The food was great – the game… not so much. AFTERNOON Ring. Ring. “What are you doing in Charleston?” “Donna and I are enjoying a weekend without kids.” “I’m here too. Come out to the show.” EVENING Two hours later Donna and I are eating dinner with Zac Brown and Zac’s family (his mother lives in Charleston) at the Family Circle Cup Stadium on Daniel Island. It’s a small world, huh? What a fantastic venue. The city hosts the Family Circle Cup every year and concerts and events fill the empty dates (and seats). I was proud of Zac and the band tonight. This was the first time I have seen him perform outside of Atlanta and trust me when I say the same passion and fever we have seen at home for years is visible nationwide (or at least in Charleston… just kidding Zac!). The Zac Brown Band headlined the concert and played for nearly 3 hours. Darius Rucker (who is from Charleston) played here recently too with Dierks Bentley. SUNDAY, OCTOBER 11 MORNING Donna does not want to leave. We are meeting her brother Donald and his wife Darlene and my niece Jenna at High Cotton for brunch before we leave town so I coax Donna from the Carriage House with a promise of a final sweep through the trendy boutiques and shops at the Charleston Place Hotel. Last time I was in Charleston Donna and I were on vacation with Big Kenny Alphin (of Big & Rich) and his wife and we stayed there and enjoyed ourselves. John St. John, the General Manager at High Cotton Maverick Bar and Grill on East Bay Street, greets us as we arrive. John told me that he moved to Charleston from East Cobb about seven months ago and his Atlanta home is still available. He asked me to let you know. High Cotton (Visit their website) is a great place to eat anytime but the Sunday Brunch is exceptional. Jenna loved the Charleston Crab Soup and a Maine Lobster Crepe (which was HUGE and required a to-go-package for dinner and probably lunch the next day too). I had to have a final round of oysters before we left town so I dove into some Buttermilk Fried Oysters and Classic Eggs Benedict. My wife Donna (always my yang – or is it me her ying?) ordered Crab Cakes Benedict so we orchestrated a half of each swap which worked out quite well. Carolina Shrimp and Grits for Darlene and Donald were quick to board the Classic Eggs Benedict wagon with me. A quick stroll through the open air Market (again) to pick up some souvenirs for the kids and a nice gift of jewelry for Nana who has been at home in Atlanta with the kids since Thursday (and has called no less than six times for instructions on “how to get the TV back to where I can watch “The Doctor’s”). I look forward to more time in both Greenville and Charleston and with the wonderful people, and our many new friends, from the great state of South Carolina. April 12, 1861 From the piazzas at the Edmondston-Alston House, with magnificent views of the Charleston Harbor, General P.T. Beauregard watched the fierce bombardment of Ft. Sumter – signaling the start of the Civil War. And on December 11 of the same year, the house gave refuge to General Robert E. Lee the night a wide-spreading fire threatened his safety in a Charleston hotel. I parked the Tahoe on the side of the street and snapped a picture myself. Caddy |
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